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Cutlery should be used for food preparation only.

Cutting other materials, such as paper and cardboard, will cause the blade to dull faster.

Cleaning

Cutlery should be washed in hot soapy water and dried immediately. Letting knives soak in water or putting them in the dishwasher could be harmful as water and high temperatures may cause a change in the temper of the steel blade or loosen the handle. Cutlery should also be stored in their own rack or in such a manner that their blade does not rub against other items and become dull faster.

Use a Steel

The sharpening steel or "Steel" will maintain the edge of your knife if used regularly. Drawing the edge of the blade across the the steel realigns the microscopic fibers found on the very edge of the blade. It is recommended that ceramic knives be sharpened using a diamond sharpener and not a sharpening steel.

To use the steel:

•  Hold the steel in one hand and the knife in the other with the cutting edge toward you.
•  Place the blade on the top of the steel and raise the back of the knife 20o  (about 1/4"). This attitude should be maintained during the entire process.
•  Place the heel of the blade at the tip of the steel and using light pressure, draw the edge of the blade across the steel in a sweeping, curved motion until the tip of the blade points toward the handle and guard of the steel.
•  Place the blade on the bottom of the steel and repeat the process to sharpen the other edge.
•   Always give each side the same number of strokes to maintain the knifes balance and even cutting edge.

Sharpening

Eventually the cutting edge of knives become dull and require sharpening to restore it's original sharpness. This can be done with a professional electric knife sharpener designed to restore the sharp edge and maintain the proper angle of the blade, using a sharpening/wet stone with honing oil, or taking your cutlery to a professional grinding shop

The tomato is actually a fruit though most people consider it a vegetable. In fact, the tomato is the world's most popular fruit. Its diversity is a major factor in its popularity, but the tomato is a nutritious food that contains vitamin A and vitamin C and lycopene, an antioxidant that fights cancer. Growing tomatoes is rather easy because tomatoes will grow in most soils. The trick to growing tomatoes is picking healthy plants and planting them at the right time. Does this Spark an idea?

Decide between seeds or seedlings. Because tomatoes cannot grow until the temperature is a consistent 50 degrees, many prefer to plant seedlings purchased at the local gardening store. Seeds may be started inside six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Plant the seeds a quarter-inch deep in flats or small pots. You must keep the seeds moist or they will dry out. After the seeds germinate, place them in an area that receives a lot of light. Before plants become root bound, plant in four-inch pots and begin placing outside for short periods of time to acclimate the plant.

Choose healthy seedlings. If you do not wish to start tomatoes from seed, then buy seedling plants at the local gardening store. Look for plants that do not have yellowing leaves or speckling on the leaves. Some popular choices are Celebrity, Big Boy and Better Boy. Not all tomatoes grow well in all areas of the country, so consider the area you live in. Your garden centers will have seedlings appropriate for your area. Choose plants according to the space you have for growing plants.

Prepare the soil in an area that will receive six to eight hours of sun. Tomatoes will grow most anywhere, but soil preparation is necessary for a productive crop. The best pH for tomatoes is 6.0 to 6.8, which is a slightly acidic soil. Before planting, loosen the soil about 6 to 8 inches in depth. Make a trench 6 to 8 inches deep, and put a thin line of organic or chemical fertilizer at the bottom of the trench. Use 5-10-10 fertilizer, which stands for the weight of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Cover the fertilizer with 2 to 3 inches of soil, so the plants don't touch the fertilizer but draw from it. If planting tomatoes in containers, use a container that is at least 14 inches deep and 18 inches wide.

Plant the seedling plants 3 to 4 inches deep into the soil. Plant them 2 to 3 feet apart and keep the rows 3 feet apart. For the indeterminate plants, place a stake beside the plant. As the plant grows, use twine to tie the plant to the stake. Tomato cages work well, too. Water thorough in early morning and water regularly, especially during dry periods.

By Pauline Gill, eHow Contributor

ZONE 1. Coldest Winters in the West and Western Prairie States

Growing season: early June through Aug., but with some variation--the longest seasons are usually found near this zone's large bodies of water. Frost can come any night of the year. Winters are snowy and intensely cold, due to latitude, elevation, and/or influence of continental air mass. There's some summer rainfall.

ZONE 2. Second-coldest Western Climate

Growing season: early May through Sept. Winters are cold (lows run from -3 degrees to -34 degrees F/-19 degrees to -37 degrees C), but less so than in Zone 1. In northern and interior areas, lower elevations fall into Zone 2, higher areas into Zone 1.

ZONE 3. West's Mildest High-elevation and Interior Regions

Growing season: early May to late Sept.--shorter than in Zone 2, but offset by milder winters (lows from 13 degrees to -24 degrees F/-11 degrees to -31 degrees C). This is fine territory for plants needing winter chill and dry, hot summers.

ZONE 4. Cold-winter Western Washington and British Columbia

Growing season: early May to early Oct. Summers are cool, thanks to ocean influence; chilly winters (19 degrees to -7 degrees F/-7 degrees to -22 degrees C) result from elevation, influence of continental air mass, or both. Coolness, ample rain suit many perennials and bulbs.

ZONE 5. Ocean-influenced Northwest Coast and Puget Sound

Growing season: mid-April to Nov., typically with cool temperatures throughout. Less rain falls here than in Zone 4; winter lows range from 28 degrees to 1 degree F/-2 degrees to -17 degrees C. This "English garden" climate is ideal for rhododendrons and many rock garden plants.

ZONE 6. Oregon's Willamette Valley

Growing season: mid-Mar. to mid-Nov., with somewhat warmer temperatures than in Zone 5. Ocean influence keeps winter lows about the same as in Zone 5. Climate suits all but tender plants and those needing hot or dry summers.

ZONE 7. Oregon's Rogue River Valley, California's High Foothills

Growing season: May to early Oct. Summers are hot and dry; typical winter lows run from 23 degrees to 9 degrees F/-5 degrees to -13 degrees C. The summer-winter contrast suits plants that need dry, hot summers and moist, only moderately cold winters.

ZONE 8. Cold-air Basins of California's Central Valley

Growing season: mid-Feb. through Nov. This is a valley floor with no maritime influence. Summers are hot; winter lows range from 29 degrees to 13 degrees F/-2 degrees to -11 degrees C. Rain comes in the cooler months, covering just the early part of the growing season.

ZONE 9. Thermal Belts of California's Central Valley

Growing season: late Feb. through Dec. Zone 9 is located in the higher elevations around Zone 8, but its summers are just as hot; its winter lows are slightly higher (temperatures range from 28 degrees to 18 degrees F/-2 degrees to -8 degrees C). Rainfall pattern is the same as in Zone 8.

ZONE 10. High Desert Areas of Arizona, New Mexico, West Texas, Oklahoma Panhandle, and Southwest Kansas

Growing season: April to early Nov. Chilly (even snow-dusted) weather rules from late Nov. through Feb., with lows from 31 degrees to 24 degrees F/-1 degree to -4 degrees C. Rain comes in summer as well as in the cooler seasons.

ZONE 11. Medium to High Desert of California and Southern Nevada

Growing season: early April to late Oct. Summers are sizzling, with 110 days above 90 degrees F/32 degrees C. Balancing this is a 3 1/2-month winter, with 85 nights below freezing and lows from 11 degrees to 0 degrees F/-12 degrees to -18 degrees C. Scant rainfall comes in winter.

ZONE 12. Arizona's Intermediate Desert

Growing season: mid-Mar. to late Nov., with scorching midsummer heat. Compared to Zone 13, this region has harder frosts; record low is 6 degrees F/-14 degrees C. Rains come in summer and winter.

ZONE 13. Low or Subtropical Desert

Growing season: mid-Feb. through Nov., interrupted by nearly 3 months of incandescent, growth-stopping summer heat. Most frosts are light (record lows run from 19 degrees to 13 degrees F/-17 degrees to -11 degrees C); scant rain comes in summer and winter.

ZONE 14. Inland Northern and Central California with Some Ocean Influence

Growing season: early Mar. to mid-Nov., with rain coming in the remaining months. Periodic intrusions of marine air temper summer heat and winter cold (lows run from 26 degrees to 16 degrees F/-3 degrees to -9 degrees C). Mediterranean-climate plants are at home here.

ZONE 15. Northern and Central California's Chilly-winter Coast-influenced Areas

Growing season: Mar. to Dec. Rain comes from fall through winter. Typical winter lows range from 28 degrees to 21 degrees F/-2 degrees to -6 degrees C. Maritime air influences the zone much of the time, giving it cooler, moister summers than Zone 14.

ZONE 16. Northern and Central California Coast Range Thermal Belts

Growing season: late Feb. to late Nov. With cold air draining to lower elevations, winter lows typically run from 32 degrees to 19 degrees F/0 degrees to -7 degrees C. Like Zone 15, this region is dominated by maritime air, but its winters are milder on average.

ZONE 17. Oceanside Northern and Central California and Southernmost Oregon

Growing season: late Feb. to early Dec. Coolness and fog are hallmarks; summer highs seldom top 75 degrees F/24 degrees C, while winter lows run from 36 degrees to 23 degrees F/2 degrees to -5 degrees C. Heat-loving plants disappoint or dwindle here.

ZONE 18. Hilltops and Valley Floors of Interior Southern California

Growing season: mid-Mar. through late Nov. Summers are hot and dry; rain comes in winter, when lows reach 28 degrees to 10 degrees F/-2 degrees to -12 degrees C. Plants from the Mediterranean and Near Eastern regions thrive here.

ZONE 19. Thermal Belts around Southern California's Interior Valleys

Growing season: early Mar. through Nov. As in Zone 18, rainy winters and hot, dry summers are the norm--but here, winter lows dip only to 27 degrees to 22 degrees F/-3 degrees to -6 degrees C, allowing some tender evergreen plants to grow outdoors with protection.

ZONE 20. Hilltops and Valley Floors of Ocean-influenced Inland Southern California

Growing season: late Mar. to late Nov.--but fairly mild winters (lows of 28 degrees to 23 degrees F/-2 degrees to -5 degrees C) allow gardening through much of the year. Cool and moist maritime influence alternates with hot, dry interior air.

ZONE 21. Thermal Belts around Southern California's Ocean-influenced Interior Valleys

Growing season: early Mar. to early Dec., with the same tradeoff of oceanic and interior influence as in Zone 20. During the winter rainy season, lows range from 36 degrees to 23 degrees F/2 degrees to -5 degrees C--warmer than in Zone 20, since the colder air drains to the valleys.

ZONE 22. Colder-winter Parts of Southern California's Coastal Region

Growing season: Mar. to early Dec. Winter lows seldom fall below 28 degrees F/-2 degrees C (records are around 21 degrees F/-6 degrees C), though colder air sinks to this zone from Zone 23. Summers are warm; rain comes in winter. Climate here is largely oceanic.

ZONE 23. Thermal Belts of Southern California's Coastal Region

Growing season: almost year-round (all but first half of Jan.). Rain comes in winter. Reliable ocean influence keeps summers mild (except when hot Santa Ana winds come from inland), frosts negligible; 23 degrees F/-5 degrees C is the record low.

ZONE 24. Marine-dominated Southern California Coast

Growing season: all year, but periodic freezes have dramatic effects (record lows are 33 degrees to 20 degrees F/1 degree to -7 degrees C). Climate here is oceanic (but warmer than oceanic Zone 17), with cool summers, mild winters. Subtropical plants thrive.

ZONE 25. South Florida and the Keys

Growing season: all year. Add ample year-round rainfall (least in Dec. through Mar.), high humidity, and overall warmth, and you have a near-tropical climate. The Keys are frost-free; winter lows elsewhere run from 40 degrees to 25 degrees F/4 degrees to -4 degrees C.

ZONE 26. Central and Interior Florida

Growing season: early Feb. to late Dec., with typically humid, warm to hot weather. Rain is plentiful all year, heaviest in summer and early fall. Lows range from 15 degrees F/-9 degrees C in the north to 27 degrees F/-3 degrees C in the south; arctic air brings periodic hard freezes.

ZONE 27. Lower Rio Grande Valley

Growing season: early Mar. to mid-Dec.. Summers are hot and humid; winter lows only rarely dip below freezing. Many plants from tropical and subtropical Africa and South America are well adapted here.

ZONE 28. Gulf Coast, North Florida, Atlantic Coast to Charleston

Growing season: mid-Mar. to early Dec. Humidity and rainfall are year-round phenomena; summers are hot, winters virtually frostless but subject to periodic invasions by frigid arctic air. Azaleas, camellias, many subtropicals flourish.

ZONE 29. Interior Plains of South Texas

Growing season: mid-Mar. through Nov. Moderate rainfall (to 25" annually) comes year-round. Summers are hot. Winter lows can dip to 26 degrees F/-3 degrees C, with occasional arctic freezes bringing much lower readings.

ZONE 30. Hill Country of Central Texas

Growing season: mid-Mar. through Nov. Zone 30 has higher annual rainfall than Zone 29 (to 35") and lower winter temperatures, normally to around 20 degrees F/-7 degrees C. Seasonal variations favor many fruit crops, perennials.

ZONE 31. Interior Plains of Gulf Coast and Coastal Southeast

Growing season: mid-Mar. to early Nov. In this extensive east-west zone, hot and sticky summers contrast with chilly winters (record low temperatures are 7 degrees to 0 degrees F/-14 degrees to -18 degrees C). There's rain all year (an annual average of 50"), with the least falling in Oct.

ZONE 32. Interior Plains of Mid-Atlantic States; Chesapeake Bay, Southeastern Pennsylvania, Southern New Jersey

Growing season: late Mar. to early Nov. Rain falls year-round (40" to 50" annually); winter lows (moving through the zone from south to north) are 30 degrees to 20 degrees F/-1 degree to -7 degrees C. Humidity is less oppressive here than in Zone 31.

ZONE 33. North-Central Texas and Oklahoma Eastward to the Appalachian Foothills

Growing season: mid-April through Oct. Warm Gulf Coast air and colder continental/arctic fronts both play a role; their unpredictable interplay results in a wide range in annual rainfall (22" to 52") and winter lows (20 degrees to 0 degrees F/-7 degrees to -18 degrees C). Summers are muggy and warm to hot.

ZONE 34. Lowlands and Coast from Gettysburg to North of Boston

Growing season: late April to late Oct. Ample rainfall and humid summers are the norm. Winters are variable--typically fairly mild (around 20 degrees F/-7 degrees C), but with lows down to -3 degrees to -22 degrees F/-19 degrees to -30 degrees C if arctic air swoops in.

ZONE 35. Ouachita Mountains, Northern Oklahoma and Arkansas, Southern Kansas to North-Central Kentucky and Southern Ohio

Growing season: late April to late Oct. Rain comes in all seasons. Summers can be truly hot and humid. Without arctic fronts, winter lows are around 18 degrees F/-8 degrees C; with them, the coldest weather may bring lows of -20 degrees F/-29 degrees C.

ZONE 36. Appalachian Mountains

Growing season: May to late Oct. Thanks to greater elevation, summers are cooler and less humid, winters colder (0 degrees to -20 degrees F/-18 degrees to -29 degrees C) than in adjacent, lower zones. Rain comes all year (heaviest in spring). Late frosts are common.

ZONE 37. Hudson Valley and Appalachian Plateau

Growing season: May to mid-Oct., with rainfall throughout. Lower in elevation than neighboring Zone 42, with warmer winters: lows are 0 degrees to -5 degrees F/-18 degrees to -21 degrees C, unless arctic air moves in. Summer is warm to hot, humid.

ZONE 38. New England Interior and Lowland Maine

Growing season: May to early Oct. Summers feature reliable rainfall and lack oppressive humidity of lower-elevation, more southerly areas. Winter lows dip to -10 degrees to -20 degrees F/-23 degrees to -29 degrees C , with periodic colder temperatures due to influxes of arctic air.

ZONE 39. Shoreline Regions of the Great Lakes

Growing season: early May to early Oct. Springs and summers are cooler here, autumns milder than in areas farther from the lakes. Southeast lakeshores get the heaviest snowfalls. Lows reach 0 degrees to -10 degrees F/-18 degrees to -23 degrees C.

ZONE 40. Inland Plains of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario

Growing season: mid-May to mid-Sept., with rainy, warm, variably humid weather. The lakes help moderate winter lows; temperatures typically range from -10 degrees to -20 degrees F/-23 degrees to -29 degrees C, with occasional colder readings when arctic fronts rush through.

ZONE 41. Northeast Kansas and Southeast Nebraska to Northern Illinois and Indiana, Southeast Wisconsin, Michigan, Northern Ohio

Growing season: early May to early Oct. Winter brings average lows of -11 degrees to -20 degrees F/-23 degrees to -29 degrees C. Summers in this zone are hotter and longer west of the Mississippi, cooler and shorter nearer the Great Lakes; summer rainfall increases in the same west-to-east direction.

ZONE 42. Interior Pennsylvania and New York; St. Lawrence Valley

Growing season: late May to late Sept. This zone's elevation gives it colder winters than surrounding zones: lows range from -20 degrees to -40 degrees F/-29 degrees to -40 degrees C, with the colder readings coming in zone's Canadian portion. Summers are humid, rainy.

ZONE 43. Upper Mississippi Valley, Upper Michigan, Southern Ontario and Quebec

Growing season: late May to mid-Sept. The climate is humid from spring through early fall; summer rains are usually dependable. Arctic air dominates in winter, with lows typically from -20 degrees to -30 degrees F/-29 degrees to -34 degrees C.

ZONE 44. Mountains of New England and Southeastern Quebec

Growing season: June to mid-Sept. Latitude and elevation give fairly cool, rainy summers, cold winters with lows of -20 degrees to -40 degrees F/-29 degrees to -40 degrees C. Choose short-season, low heat-requirement annuals and vegetables.

ZONE 45. Northern Parts of Minnesota and Wisconsin, Eastern Manitoba through Interior Quebec

Growing season: mid-June through Aug., with rain throughout; rainfall (and humidity) are least in zone's western part, greatest in eastern reaches. Winters are frigid (-30 degrees to -40 degrees F/-34 degrees to -40 degrees C), with snow cover, deeply frozen soil.

How to prepare pasta dough.

This base mixture is suitable for all the recipes contained on this page.

To obtain about 1-1/8 lb of pasta, you need 12-1/4 oz (about 2 cups) of all-purpose flour (Italy: Type 00, Germany: Type 405), and 2 large whole eggs.

Place the flour on a worktop and make a hole in the middle and put the eggs in.

Beat the eggs with a fork and gently mix in the flour from the sides. Mix until the dough becomes uniform.

Sprinkle flour on the worktop and start kneading the pasta.

Important:  If the pasta is too dry or crumbly, spray with a little lukewarm water. 

When the required texture has been obtained, form a ball and leave to rest in a bowl for a short while. Cover the dough to prevent it from drying.

Colored Pasta

Green - With spinach. Boil the spinach and squeeze all the water out when it is cooked. Then mash into a puree. The proportions should be 1-1/8 lb of flour to 8-3/4 oz spinach.

Red - With tomato puree. Cook the puree in a saucepan, with a little salt and pepper. Calculate one tablespoon of puree for every 3-1/2 oz of flour.

Other Colors  - You may add squid ink, beetroot, saffron, cocoa, etc... Bear in mind that some of these ingredients produce more moisture, therefore it will be necessary to add more flour.

How to prepare the Imperia for first use.

1) Fasten the machine to a table or counter, using the special clamp provided. It fits in the square hole on the same side where you insert the handle. Be sure to tighten the clamp before starting.

2) To clean the machine of packing oils, put a small ball of dough between the rollers and roll it through; make a ball and run it through again several times.

3) Do the same with the ball of dough and the cutting rollers.

4) Dispose of the dough.

Using the Imperia. 1) Turn the adjustment knob until the flat rollers are at their widest opening. 2) Start passing part of the dough through the rollers, turning the handle as illustrated at left. 3) Before passing the pasta through the rollers another time, fold the sheet in two and sprinkle lightly with flour. 4) Pass the pasta through the widest opening 6 to 8 times, folding it in two each time. The dough should be fairly soft. If it is too sticky, sprinkle lightly with flour. 5) Reduce the spacing between the rollers by one notch. Pass the sheet of dough through the rollers once. 6) Continue reducing the space between the rollers by one notch at a time, each time passing the lengthening sheet of dough through the rollers once. Stop once the desired thickness has been obtained. 7) When the sheet of dough gets too long, divide it lengthwise in half, to make it easier to handle. 8) Leave the sheet to rest for about 10 minutes, so that it will dry slightly and be hard enough for cutting, without sticking to the cutting rollers. 9) Attach the cutter accessory to the body. Supports are provided on both sides of the machine. 10) Insert the handle in the slot of the chosen cutter. 11) Lightly sprinkle flour on the sheet, to prevent it from sticking to the cutter. Then start passing it through, turning the handle with one hand, while holding the sheet with the other. 12) Place the cut pasta on a large surface, or on a drying rack, so that it dries before cooking.

Cleaning.

Clean excess flour left on the Imperia and its attachments, using a soft brush.

A dry cloth may be used to wipe the body.

NEVER wash your Imperia and accessories. Some of the precision components are made of steel and may rust if they come in contact with water.

Occasionally place a drop or two of mineral oil where the ends of the rollers meet the machine body, to keep them rolling smoothly.

Store in the original box, in a dry location. Use it often.

from Fantes

The stovetop espresso maker, also known as "macchinetta", is still the most popular way of making espresso at home.

It works by creating pressure through heat to force water through finely ground coffee and into a serving chamber.

How much is 1 cup? A traditional espresso is about 1.5 ounces. A 6-cup espresso maker would thus make approximately 9 oz. of that delicious liquid. Though espresso cups may hold 3 to 4 oz., it is customary to only partly fill the cup.

Become familiar with the parts of your macchinetta. Take it apart and examine how each part fits in place before you wash and use it the first time.

How to make espresso in a macchinetta:

• Fill the bottom chamber with cold water up to the steam release valve (overpressure plug).
• Insert the funnel filter (cone) and fill it with espresso-ground coffee, smoothing it without tamping.
• Make sure the flat round filter plate and the rubber gasket are in place underneath the central column of the upper part of the macchinetta.
• Screw the top on, but not too hard.
• Put it on the stovetop with enough heat to cover the bottom, but not so that it heats the handle.
• When you hear the macchinetta gurgling, remove it from the heat and allow it to sit for 30 seconds.
• Use a spoon to stir the coffee, then serve.

The Overpressure Plug (emergency steam release valve) is a safety mechanism that will open a way for the steam to escape if it can't go through tamped coffee grounds. It usually lasts the life of the pot. To help insure this, do not tamp the coffee grounds. Smooth the coffee, instead, then lightly knock the filter funnel downwards on a counter to help evenly distribute the grounds.

Metal handles and surfaces get hot, so use a pot holder when handling a macchinetta. Close supervision is necessary when using a macchinetta, especially when children are near.

Metal handles and surfaces get hot, so use a pot holder when handling a macchinetta. Close supervision is necessary when using a macchinetta, especially when children are near.

Keep the heat source low and under the pot to help prevent discoloration and damage to the handle and other parts. Over time, some discoloration of the metal is to be expected due to the repetitive heating and to the natural effects from your water supply. Some heat spots (bluing) can be cleaned using silver polish on the stainless steel macchinetta. On a smaller macchinetta, just keep the handle away from the heat source, even if the macchinetta is not perfectly centered on the heat. The use of a diffuser will keep the heat lower, though it will take a bit longer for the macchinetta to heat.

To maintain the macchinetta in good condition, wash all the parts with hot sudsy water, and rinse thoroughly. (Make sure the filter funnel holes are not clogged as well.) Before first use, and regularly (though not necessarily every time), also remove and wash the rubber gasket and round flat filter plate. Use a dull knife point, or small screwdriver, to remove the gasket, and to get to the filter plate. When the gasket dries or cracks, replace it. A telltale sign of a needed replacement gasket will be that some steam will begin to escape from the screw threads between the top and bottom pieces of your macchinetta.

Occasionally scour the inside of the macchinetta to remove mineral deposits. Or soak with a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water, then rinse thoroughly.

Gaskets are likely to last at least a year if they are cleaned on a regular basis. Keep a note of the name of the manufacturer of the espresso maker, its model name and size; this will help in obtaining replacement gaskets. If you can't find a replacement, get a sheet of rubber in a similar thickness (from your local hardware or plumbing supply store), and use the old gasket to cut out a template on the sheet of rubber.

Pasta Recipes

Mexican Empanadas

Ingredients: For the dough: 2lbs. all purpose flour, 7 oz. shortening, warm water, salt. For the filling: 1 lb. ground meat, 4 chopped onions, 3 cubes broth, chili sauce, 3 tbsp. roasted flour (roast in a saucepan without oil), 3 hard boiled eggs (chopped), olives, raisins, oregano, salt, pepper.

Preparation: Mix the dough ingredients until obtaining a uniform consistency and color. Divide in 4. Work with each part in the smooth rollers starting with #1 until #5 in the dial, passing the dough twice on each #. Cut the dough in 4 inch circles. In a saucepan, fry all the ingredients with a bit of butter. place the filling in the center of each circle and fold, forming half circles. Fold the edges inward and seal with a fork. Fry in abundant oil or bake.

Cream Cappelletti

Ingredients: For the pasta: 14oz. all purpose flour, 4 eggs. For the filling: 5oz. turkey, 1.5oz. butter, 3oz. ham (chopped), 5oz. roast beef, 1 egg, salt, nutmeg. For the cream: 3oz. butter, 7oz. cream, 3.5oz. parmesan cheese, salt, nutmeg.

Preparation: Fry the turkey and beef in the butter. Mix all the filling ingredients in the blender. Prepare the dough stretching until #6 in the dial. Cut the pasta sheet in 2 inch squares. Put a teaspoon of the filling in the middle and fold in half forming triangles. Wrap the triangle around the finger sticking the side edges together, and the top edge downwards. Cook the cappelletti in abundant water and salt to taste. Meanwhile, mix all the cream ingredients in a saucepan at medium heat stirring at all times. Drain the pasta and mix with the cream.

Seafood Spaghetti

Ingredients: 14oz. spaghetti, 1oz. mushrooms, 1lb. mussels, 10oz. shrimp, 2oz. butter, 2 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp. tomato sauce, 4 oz. canned tuna, 2 tbsp. parsley, salt, pepper.

Preparation: Prepare the spaghetti following the basic recipe. Clean the mussels thoroughly. cook in a covered pot with a tablespoon of butter until they open; take out from the shells. Strain the liquid and boil the shrimp in it for 5 min. Remove, keeping the liquid. Fry the garlic in the rest of the butter. Remove and add the chopped mushrooms. Add the tomato and, very slowly the reserved liquid. When the sauce thickens, add the tuna, mussels, shrimp, salt and pepper. Mix with the cooked and drained spaghetti and sprinkle with parsley.

Hake canelonni with saffron

Ingredients: 12 sheets of cooked pasta , 12oz. hake, 20oz. bechamel sauce, few threads of saffron, salt, pepper, parsley.

Preparation: Prepare tha pasta with the basic recipe and cut in 5 inch square sheets. Cook in boiling water (preferably in a saucepan) and dry on a piece of cloth. Put 1/3 of the bechamel sauce in a saucepan and add the hake in pieces (without thorns or skin). Add salt and pepper, and keep in low heat. In another container, mix the saffron (crushed) with the parsley; mix this with the other1/3 of bechamel sauce. In a recipient place the bechamel with saffron, then over this sauce, the canellonni (filled with the hake). Cover with the rest of the bechamel sauce and put in the oven for a few minutes.

Honey Cake

Discription:dessert Sevings:8 Ingredients:1 packet dry active yeast, 1/4 c warm water, 3 c. flour, 1 t. salt, 4 large eggs, beaten well, 3/4 c. ghee (see full listing of recipes) Melted ghee or butter , for serving warm honey.

Instructions: Dissolve yeast in the warm water. Into a large mixing bowl sift the flour and salt. Make a well in center of the flour mixture. Pour beaten eggs and the yeast mixture into the well in center of the flour mixture. Stir to blend and then kneed well. Slowly mix in the 1/4 c. warm melted ghee, continuously kneed dough throughout this process. Continue kneading until dough is smooth and elastic. if dough seems to dry add a small amount of water at a time. Flour your hands and dive the dough into 16 balls about the size of a large egg. On a lightly floured board place a dough ball and form into a very thin round shape, using the heel of your hand. A rolling pin may be used or your Trattorina's rollers. Brush a baking sheet with ghee. Place the completed round on the baking tray and brush well with melted ghee. Shape 7 more rounds. After completing each round place on top of the previous round, press the edges with fingertips and brush well with ghee. Repeat this process with the other 8 rounds . You will have 2 stacks on the baking sheet, be sure to brush the last round with the ghee. Let rest in a warm place for 45 minutes. Bake in a 350 degree Fahrenheit oven for 25-30 minutes until light golden brown. If you tap the base of the tray there should be a hollow sound to indicate the cakes are done.

Best way to eat:Serve hot with generous amounts of melted butter and warm honey on top   Note: The traditional way of eating this is to break off pieces with the fingertips and dip into butter and honey that remains on the serving platter. It may also be served by cutting it into wedges and spooning butter and honey remaining on the serving platter over top.